From age 12 on, Teofilo Ramos had been a great worker: delivery boy, day laborer, soup kitchen chef, reliable hand at drywall, trusted caretaker in a Hasidic village. So it was no surprise that he wound up at midlife behind the counter of a deli on Rockaway Beach Boulevard in Far Rockaway, Queens — 12 hours a day, six days a week, drawing coffee from an urn, and slicing meat and swabbing floors.